A wine’s potential is realised by man, but its character lies in the vineyard. That’s because different soils suit different grapes, and why similar soils can produce two very different wines (think of an aromatic, grassy Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough versus a lean, smoky example from Sancerre). Of course, the ensemble of sunshine, altitude, rainfall, slope and a winemaker all influence what you taste in the glass. But ultimately, it’s a soil’s distinctive makeup of nutrients and minerals that can give certain wines their unique sense of ‘place’. The French call this influence a wine’s ‘terroir’ (pronounced te-wah), but at its simplest, there’s not much more to it than the dirt under your shoes. And now that I’m in France, it’s probably worth digging a little deeper. 

Paris to Provence

Burgundy

If there’s one place to witness the soil’s influence from vine to wine, it’s Burgundy. The most expressive vineyards are found in the 50km south of Dijon, where a narrow belt of vines known as the Côte d’Or scales an east-facing bedrock of limestone. Only two grapes are found here, with Pinot Noir dominating the limestone-flecked marls of the north, and Chardonnay on the clays that dictate the Cote’s south. The stunning complexity of some of these wines means they also come at a price. But whilst some of the world’s most expensive wines are made here, there’s also plenty of value to be found in the tasting rooms.

Burgundy's duo of Limestone and Marl is home to the world's most exhilerating Pinot Noirs

Mushroom risotto with truffle butter pairs well with the gamey flavours of some red burgundies

Marking Burgundy’s northern fringe about an hour’s drive north-west of Dijon, an isolated amphitheatre of Kimmeridgean clay and limestone provides the ideal canvas for Chardonnay. The chalky soil is loaded with fossilsed oyster shells left behind from the upper-Jurassic period 180 million years ago. The most expressive vineyards occupy the steepest slopes overlooking Chablis; the town from which these wines also take their name. These wines can show intense flavours of apple, smoke and flint.

These amphitheatres of chalky soil define the landscape of Chablis

Loire Valley

The vineyards of the Loire are scattered along the rolling hills that flank France’s longest river, the Loire. Red and rosé wines are made here, but this is white wine country. Around the towns of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, the soil is a blinding mix of chalk, flint and quartz; ideal for Sauvignon Blanc. On the best sites, these wines adopt a distinctive smoky character that complements their lively acidity. Chenin Blanc also thrives in the Loire, found mostly on the chalky soils of limestone and fossilised marine creatures that dominate the vineyards of Touraine further upstream.

Sancerre's soil of chalk and quartz makes expressive, aromatic Sauvignon Blanc

If you’re not pushed for time, the best way to explore the Loire is to put down your map and drive on through the tiny villages that dot the waterfront. On the way to Sancerre, we chance upon a tiny goat farm making the local chevre, Crottin de Chavignol. Valerie takes us to meet her baby goats, and then to her lab to sample the newest batch.

Breakfast

Rich and creamy yet weightless in its texture, it’s the freshest cheese we’ve ever tasted, and elevated with the clean, citric flavours of a cold glass of Sancerre. Amazing!

Delicious Crottin de Chavignol on a crusty French baguette

Rhone Valley

France’s sun-drenched south is also the country’s largest wine producing region by volume. The mountainous northern-Rhone is revered for its velvety, long-lived Syrah (Shiraz), while the south is defined by its vast plains, soaring summer temperatures and the perfumed Grenache that dominates its full-bodied red blends.

So how does the Rhone’s terroir influence its wines? The vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape are littered with millions of round ‘pudding’ stones that absorb the sun’s baking heat and reflect it back at night. This helps ripen the grapes by raising their sugar levels and concentrating their flavours. The resulting wines can be a mouthful in themselves, boasting massive red berry flavours and a rich mouth-feel thanks to their high alcohol.

The rounded 'pudding' stones of the southern Rhone

At the soul of a wine is its soil. A careless winemaker can make an ordinary wine from some great grapes. But in the winery, even those with the greatest of patience and intuition can’t do much without them. It’s in the vineyard.

Next time: A week in Italy’s northern gem, Piedmont

Photos by Jules Nemcich

The greatest pleasure of wine is discovering a bottle that stops you in your tracks. It might be from a region you’ve never tried or from a grape you can’t pronounce. A week in Portugal prompted my latest few, as I bonded with the Port wines I’d neglected for years.

The quaint city of Porto lies on the banks of Portugal’s Douro River, where it spills into the Atlantic Ocean in the country’s north-west. It’s here in the dark cellars of the treasured Port lodges that these fascinating wines are matured, but it’s upstream, on the steep terraces overlooking the Douro that these wines, the true port wines, are born.

Looking across to Porto from the Port lodges

The steep terraces of the Douro

The vines used to produce port wines are planted on extremely poor, rocky soils of schist and granite. With little rainfall and no irrigation, the grapes ripen in the baking sun until they’re picked in September.

May 2010, the grapes will compete with the vine's canopy for sunshine to ripen

Unlike wines that take their name from their grape, (Shiraz, Chardonnay etc), Port wines are made from a blend of many. The 5 most common grapes permitted are Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca and Tinta Cao. Throw in a good whack of residual sugar and alcohol, and it’s easy to go off course! But getting familiar with even just the basics of port will pay dividends, opening you to a kaleidoscope of flavours unmatched by any other.

What you need to know…
Port wines are fortified wines. This basically means they’re strengthened or ‘fortified’ with a brandy spirit during their fermentation. At 77% alcohol/volume, the brandy kills the yeasts converting the natural grape sugars into alcohol. This stops the fermentation, raises the wine’s alcohol percentage and leaves some ‘residual’ sugar behind. That’s why you’ll always taste some level of sweetness in port wines regardless of their style.

Deep Purple…
Port was traditionally made by emptying heavy baskets of port grapes into granite troughs called lagares (pronounced ‘la-gars’). Inside these, teams of workers would link arms and tread the grapes in shifts to extract colour, tannins and flavours before the fermentation. Rituals such as dancing would alternate with the treading long into the night, until the exhausted workers abandoned the purple juice for it to ferment. The teams of treaders have now largely been replaced by robotic equivalents such as those at Graham’s and Sandeman, although they still exist among a handful of producers including Taylor’s. Don’t miss my visit to these Port lodges below.

Robotic lagares at Sandeman

On the label…
There are many different styles of port, and variations in both quality and methods of production exist within each one. So without risk of compromising the scope of these, I’ve listed the 4 broadest styles below. The ruby ports are the cheapest of the 4, with the vintage ports commanding the dearest prices. Those in the know should check out www.fortheloveofport.com for a more comprehensive review.

Ruby Ports are the youngest of all ports. Deep ruby-red in colour, they are typically full-bodied and chockers with dark-jammy fruits. Ruby ports are made from a blend of different vintages, matured in big oak barrels, and enjoyed in their youth. They are filtered ports, so decanting them isn’t necessary.

Tawny Ports are also a blend of different vintages, but are much more complex than ruby ports. Their tawny colour and greater complexity come from a much longer time spent ageing in small oak barrels, where they can develop pronounced nutty caramel flavours from their oxidative process. The best will have an indication of age on the label, eg 10, 20, 30 or 40 years old, which specify the average age of the blended vintages inside the bottle. Once opened, Tawny ports can last for at least 6 months and do not need decanting. The 10-20 year old’s are great served slightly chilled as an aperitif.

Graham's 20 year old Tawny port

Late Bottled Vintage Ports are incredible value for money. Pioneered by Taylor’s in the 1960’s, these are vintage ports that spend 4-6 years in huge old oak barrels before bottling. These are full-bodied ports but the best are beautifully balanced and boast dark-fruit flavours and firm tannins. These are also often filtered and do not need decanting.

Doing time - Late Bottled Vintage Port in barrel at the Taylor's lodge in Porto

Vintage Ports are the most powerful and complex of all ports. As they are ports from a single vintage, they can only be produced in outstanding years (about 3 every decade). After fermentation, they will spend just 2 years in old oak barrels before being bottled. Unlike tawny ports whose ageing is done in the barrel, vintage ports develop their characters in the bottle, with the best living for 50 years or more! These are intensely concentrated wines that need to be decanted, and will only keep for a few days once opened.

Dow's Vintage Port 2007

Taylor’s
www.taylor.pt

Taylor’s reputation as a port producer is matched by very few. With over 300 years of experience and some of the best positioned vineyards in the Douro, it’s no surprise this family operation makes outstanding ports of character and power. As my host Chris walks me through the cellars, our conversation soon turns to treading (remember the lagares above). It’s now a rare tradition in the Douro, but one Taylor’s proudly keeps for their vintage ports.

Chris and I in the Taylor's cellars

Chris has organised a tasting of various Taylor’s ports, including their 20, 30 and 40 year old Tawnies, as well as their renowned Late Bottled Vintage, and various Vintage Ports. I love the Tawnies for their range and generous flavours, but it’s their vintage ports that really sing.

The port tasting at Taylor's

Taylor’s pioneered the Late Bottled Vintage style ports that are treasured around the world today. With power and richness, they possess similar flavours to vintage ports, but are released ready to drink and at a fraction of the cost. These are exciting wines worth exploring on their own, with nuts, or with chocolate desserts.

Seek it out: Taylor’s Late Bottled Vintage Port 2004. A belter from the style’s most distinguished producer. Masses of ripe, dark fruits on the palate, balanced oak and good tannin grip. The value for money ratio here is unbelievable. Pair it with a strong cheddar, or soft-centred chocolate puddings. Get it at Vintage Cellars for $40.

Taylor's Late Bottled Vintage Port 2004

Graham’s
www.grahams-port.com

As soon as you walk into the Graham’s lodges, you know you’ve arrived somewhere special. A gorgeous tasting room decorated with stools and tables made out of old port barrels provides a striking contrast between the old and the new. But it’s Graham’s ability to merge tradition with innovation that makes this family company so successful.

The Tasting Room at Graham's

My host Gustavo has also put together a tasting featuring Graham’s spectacular vintage ports and Tawnies. Side by side, it’s fascinating to see how the Tawnies have developed in the barrel. The younger ones show off their vibrant flavours and bright colours while the 30-40 year-old’s boast brilliant amber hues and an unparalleled depth of flavour.

Graham's 10, 20 and 30 year old Tawny ports

In port country they talk about vintages like a religion. And if you spend an hour with someone as religious about port as Gustavo, you soon realise you’re about to be converted. He tells me the 45’s and 48’s are really starting to hit their straps and that he’s about to fly to London to celebrate the 50^th anniversary of the adored 1960 vintage. He’s spent months tracking down a bottle, and will share it with 14 other fanatics and their cellared treasures. That’s commitment.

Gustavo and I at Graham's

Seek it out: Graham’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port. Smooth and rich, with the flavours of a block of Cadbury’s fruit & nut, and wonderful length from the older material. Share this with a mate and some good nuts.

Coopers maintain the port barrels at Graham's

The Master Blender…

The generosity of those in the wine industry never ceases to amaze me. During our stay upstream in the Douro, I met a Master Blender when a shared bread basket became the catalyst for conversation. Vasco invited us on a tour and tasting at the Sandeman cellars, and then took us to lunch at DOC; what is easily the Douro’s best restaurant. It is rare, in any instance, to be afforded such a privilege as that.

Vasco and I at Quinta do Seixo, alongside the Sandeman cellars in the Douro

The barrel room at Sandeman

Monkfish with asparagus porridge at DOC Restaurant in the Douro

A huge thank you must go out to Chris from Taylor’s, Gustavo from Graham’s and Vasco from Sandeman, whose generous hospitality and genuine passion made my stay an absolute treat.

Next time: A French picnic through the vineyards of Burgundy, Loire and Provence.

Photos by Jules Nemcich

Pairing food and wine can be tricky, but “it’s the simple things in life that are often the best”. Kellogg’s were onto something early, but Europe beat them to it. At the heart of Italian and Spanish fare, classic matches between flavours and textures merge seamlessly, uncluttered by excess or pretention. April has delivered an assault on the senses with some unforgettable combos. If I’ve learnt anything; it’s that food and wine taste better together.

Otto Pizzeria, New York
www.ottopizzeria.com

Mario Batali’s Enoteca, Otto, is one of those places where magic happens. The wine list is a shrine to the boot, featuring generously-priced gems that bring out the hearty, rustic flavours of authentic Italian cooking. After a pre-dinner tasting of the wines of Piemonte in Italy’s north-west, Head Sommelier Dan guided us to a bottle of Savuto DOC from the region of Calabria on Italy’s toe. There in the sun-scorched vineyards of the south develop the rich, earthy and savoury flavours these wines are known for. If you’re hooked on Italian wines or want to learn more about them, Dan has a great, no nonsense website devoted to the Italian wine enthusiast. www.wineforthestudent.com

Otto's Head Sommelier Dan and I at the Piemonte pre-dinner tasting

I love the synergy and simplicity of flavours found at the heart of Italian food and wine. Tomato-based sauces in pizza and pasta can pair really well with the high-acid and tannic red wines of Tuscany such as Chianti. Made from the Sangiovese grape, this savoury red wine often features vibrant notes of cherry and dark fruits with balanced alcohol and understated oak. These are sensational food wines and you’ll find plenty of keepers for under $20.

Amazing truffle egg pizza paired with a savoury Calabrian red

L’Establiment, Valencia

You know it for oranges, but Valencia’s biggest culinary triumph is paella, where it was born centuries ago in the quaint village of El Palmar. We drove 5 hours from Madrid just for this and I would’ve driven 10. On a sunny Sunday afternoon, Jose Luis’s charming little restaurant L’Establiment is teaming with local families who come in hoards for the stuff. Authentic paella is simmered over a wood fire and cooked with chicken, pork, game or seafood. Tomato, olive oil and saffron infuse the rice giving it a rich glow, while a firm crust underneath these sensational flavours assures you you’ve discovered something special.

Paella with shellfish paired with a zippy rose from Spain

Paella is very salty, and this where choosing the right wine will really complete your experience.

Whatever the cuisine, I like pairing salty dishes with crisp, clean and cool wines. A good whack of mouth-watering acidity will balance the salty flavours and a little sweetness will also do the same. Good matches for salt are the zesty-citric flavours of a dry Sauvignon Blanc, or the clean, limey notes of a Riesling or Pinot Grigio. A crisp rosé from Navarra in the north of Spain balanced the saltiness perfectly. It’s best to avoid red wines with salty food as it accentuates the alcohol in the wine, leaving an astringent sensation in your mouth.

Homemade grappa to finish

Whatever your combo, be brave and experiment. And if it works for you, it’s a great match!

Gus. 

You’ll hunt down a great range of Italian and Spanish wines at:

Ultimo Wine Centre
Shop c, 21/99 Jones St, Ultimo
Ph: (02) 9211 2380
Web: www.ultimowinecentre.com.au

Next time: A special visit to my favourite Port lodges in Porto.

Photos by Jules Nemcich

The film ‘Sideways’ unleashed our obsession with Pinot. While some couldn’t explain it and most of us couldn’t afford it, the reasons didn’t matter. Paul Giamatti’s portrayal of an infatuated pinotphile started an insatiable worldwide thirst for the ‘heartbreak grape’. Still in Napa wine country, I head to Schramsberg to witness Pinot’s part in America’s most treasured sparkling wines, and discover a hidden gem in the Russian River Valley with Hartford Family Winery.

Schramsberg Vineyards
www.schramsberg.com

Their sparkling wines are nurtured by one of the world’s few Master Riddlers and have filled the flutes of America’s Presidents at The White House for decades. A Tuesday morning appointment at breathtaking Schramsberg will prove to be one of my biggest highs. Ever.

It’s very quiet. Inside the labyrinth of underground caves at Schramsberg, millions of bottles of sparkling wine are sleeping. As we follow our host Lenah, it’s easy to be intimidated by the walls that surround us.

Walls of wine at Schramsberg

Good fizz is made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay or Pinot Meunier grapes, or a blend of the three. And of those, it’s Pinot Noir that’s by far the most difficult to grow. Just as for Champagne and the production of the world’s finest sparkling wines, Schramsberg use the traditional method. This essentially means that every stage of the production process occurs in the bottle. It’s a very expensive and time-consuming process, but only the most exciting fizz is made in this way. Lying in the darkness, the dead yeast cells known as the ‘lees’ begin to contribute a creamy, biscuity flavour to the wine.

Look closely at the 'lees' settled on the bottom

When the wine reaches its decided period of maturation, the batches are ready for ‘riddling’. Here, the lees tumble down to the neck by inverting the bottle gradually by hand. Lenah proudly tells me that Master Riddler Ramone Viera can turn 48,000 bottles in 6 hours with just a flick of his wrists.

A batch ready to be riddled. Ramone will turn the bottles several times until they're nearly inverted

The bottles enter the winery upside down and a machine freezes the lees like a plug. Upon inverting the bottles and removing the caps, the pressure within the bottle shoots out the frozen sediment with a bang. Within seconds, each bottle is topped up with a solution of sugary wine, is sealed with its cork and wire casing, and shaken before all those precious bubbles can escape. The bottles might be sleeping again, but not for long.

The lees have been frozen and the bottles are ready for disgorgement

The bottles are quickly sealed with sparkling wine corks and gently shaken

Master Riddler Ramone Viera

Seek it out: Schramsberg Reserve 2002. A blend of 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay; the ratio of the blend and the quality of the vintage explains why this is so delicious. The Pinot adds power, bright berry flavours and fresh acidity, while there’s a welcomed finesse and richness from the balance of Chardonnay and its extended maturation in the bottle. Very fine and beautifully integrated. $100/bottle.

Hartford Family Winery
www.hartfordwines.com

Home to Burgundy in France, Pinot’s thin skin and hypersensitivity to its site means only the most skilled of growers can produce something worth bottling. One of those is Hartford.

This tiny producer is nestled amongst the stunning Russian River area of Sonoma County, just a couple of hours drive north-west of Napa. Like Schramsberg, that genuine sense of pride and detail leeches through from every corner you turn; a feeling so special of a family winery. Our lovely host Amanda has organised a tasting on the terrace for us, and luckily we’ve picked ourselves a cracker day.

The view from the terrace at Hartford

Some excellent Chardonnays and old-vine Zinfandels are made from small, well-chosen vineyard sites across about 5 different appellations in the Sonoma region, but it’s their collection of single-vineyard Pinots that’s hogging our attention today. In good years they make up to 8, each offering a different interpretation of its soil, climate and aspect, amongst other things.

Me, Jules and Amber tasting at the stunning Hartford winery

One of the reasons I love Pinot is you never know what you’re in for. Unlike Shiraz or Sangiovese, Pinot’s extreme sensitivity to the elements means it might thrill you one year and maybe not so the next. Either way, you’ll pay top dollar just for the preview. As Allen Meadows from Burghound.com put it “In the search for great Pinot, you may not always get what you pay for, but you will never get what you don’t pay for. In short, Pinot is never cheap”.

Good Pinot is usually always heightened with food and can match well with duck, mushrooms, game meats and risottos. Be brave and experiment!

Hartford 'Far Coast Vineyard' Pinot Noir 2007

Seek it out: Hartford Far Coast Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007. This one really got me. The layers of bright strawberry were an awesome contrast with its subtle smoky flavours. Silky, seamless finish. Would be even better with peking duck. A bargain at $70/bottle.

Next time: A snapshot of what’s hot in New York, before heading to Southern Spain for Sherry and Sardines.

Photos by Jules Nemcich

 

Something beautiful can literally stop you in your tracks. And California’s Napa Valley is on the list. It’s the first week of Spring in wine country, and the striking yellows of the mustard flowers mirror the undulating rows of vines like symmetry. We’ve not been watching the map and have missed the turnoff to our first appointment. It’s easy to get lost in the Napa; but maybe that’s the point…

Location unknown, Napa Valley

The Napa has boomed since the 1960’s, and is now home to over 400 wineries, along with thriving fruit orchards and rustic olive groves. The long, warm summers, cool winters and gravelly soils afford the region a variety of wine grapes. Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are big here, but it’s Cabernet that’s king. We’re here to taste at a number of wineries, but limited space means I’m only able to blog my favourites!

Joseph Phelps Vineyards
www.jpvwines.com

 I discovered this gem in Perth last year at ‘Must’ Wine Bar; so I’m here with big expectations. A relaxed terrace tasting in the sun offers stunning views of the valley floor and the amphitheatre of estate vines below us. The full-bodied yet beautifully balanced ‘Ovation’ Chardonnay and the series of estate and single-vineyard Cabernets are seriously impressive.

The view from our terrace tasting

Phelps pioneered Syrah (Shiraz) in the Napa Valley back in the 1970’s; and the experience shows. The velvety-soft textures and perfumed notes of raspberry and white pepper provide a welcomed contrast from some of the jammy blockbusters from Australia. Ossobuco please!

Taking it all in

The flagship Cabernets - Backus and Insignia

 Seek it out: 2006 Joseph Phelps Insignia. One of the superstars in the Phelps portfolio and among the few iconic reds of the Napa. 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot. A rich core of blackcurrant fruit and spice framed by super-fine, seamless tannins. Real focus, density and drive; immaculate balance. $200/bottle.

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars
www.cask23.com

Stag’s Leap’s extraordinary triumph at the 1976 ‘Judgement of Paris’ tasting put Napa wines on the map. At the pinnacle of the reds, are two single-vineyard Cabernets. Grapes for the ‘Fay’ come off alluvial soils, producing a rich, full-bodied style, bursting with blackcurrant and plum wrapped up in soft, fine tannins. ‘SLV’ is leaner and more focused; giving contrasting flavours and textures from its dissimilar terroir (see my description below). You can read more about that infamous Paris tasting on their website above.

The stunning Fay vineyard at Stag's Leap

 
In exceptional years like 2006, tiny parcels of the best fruit from both blocks are used to produce their signature wine, known as ‘Cask 23’. In the glass it delivers the best of both, with masses of ripe, dark fruit over savory, earthy notes. It’s intense and seductive; the girls are in love with it. What a treat it’d be to see this in 10 years.

Our lovely host Ben walked us through the iconic barrel cave

Seek it out: 2006 Stags Leap SLV Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes for this wine come off vines planted on very gravelly, volcanic soils, and ‘06 was a cracker year for Napa Cabernet. An awesome translation of the physical site, with layer upon layer of mulberry, plum, cassis and balanced oak; stylish wine. $125/bottle.

Me, Amber and Jules tasting at Stag's Leap

 

Chimney Rock
www.chimneyrock.com

Like most of the boutique wineries here, you’ll find Chimney Rock along Napa’s beautiful and winding Silverado Trail. A unique and vibrant blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris they call ‘Elevage Blanc’ draws me in with its dry, vibrant notes of fresh citrus and rich pear. Our friendly host Mike knows we’re here for the good stuff, and generously pulls the corks on two of their single-vineyard Cabernets.

The beautiful cellar door and gardens at Chimney Rock

 
The ‘Tomahawk’ is bright and fruit-driven with generous berry flavours and a subtle trace of spicy oak. It’s beautifully made and one to enjoy in the shorter-term if you can’t wait. By comparison the ‘Ganymede’ is bigger and more powerful, with a richer mouth-feel, it really opens up in the glass and reveals an even bigger length of flavour.

Cabernet vines amongst the blooming mustard flowers

 
Seek it out: 2006 Chimney Rock Elevage. A sensational Bordeaux-style blend of (50%) Cabernet Sauvignon, (40%) Merlot and (10%) Petit Verdot; and probably the best value red I tasted all week. Layered, complex blackcurrant and blackberry fruits with seamless use of oak. A bright, velvety mid-palate and super-long finish. Classy. $76/bottle.

The '06 Chimney Rock Elevage

 
Next time…
I’m treated to a tour of the caves of fizz at gorgeous Schramsberg, and head northwest for a taste of the Russian River Valley’s finest Pinot’s at Hartford Wines.Photos by Jules Nemcich

 

Our planet is hurting. In South America, the sweltering heat in Brazil and the landslides across Bolivia have been a distressing reminder of where climate change has left us. And when torrential rains peppered the Inca Trail and killed two hikers on my way to Machu Picchu last month, I started thinking seriously about weather and wine.

Raging floods slam the town of Aguas Calientes at the foot of Machu Picchu

The world of wine has its fair share of climatic challenges and Australia’s regions are no exception. A blistering Barossan sun near vintage will send potential alcohol levels skyrocketing, while late rain in the Hunter could bring disease into the vineyard before the grapes can be harvested. With even less warning, Spring frosts in the Yarra might destroy an entire crop before sunrise, while even a passing hailstorm in Orange is almost certain to end in grape suicide. All that work…

When vintage finally arrives, the gamble is knowing when to pick.

But this depends on the type of grapes and where they grow, the weather they’ve been dealt or that’s still yet to come, and of course, the style of wine that’s intended to be made. And then every year is different again from the last. Pick too early, and in the glass you’ll feel a bitter sensation from the unripe tannins of red grapes, and taste aggressively herbaceous characters and an unpleasant tartness in the whites. Wait too long and you’ll only end up with a wine lacking any sort of freshness, definition or structure at all. But sometimes it all comes together at just the right moment, and vintage begins with infinite potential.

Frost damage to grapes, deadly stuff

Coonawarra Cabernet, Clare Valley Riesling, Barossa Shiraz; Australia is chockers with established wine icons. But soaring temperatures and an appalling drought have now meant the days of some of our favourite wine styles are numbered. Along the Murray River in western New South Wales and Victoria, the situation has become so desperate that many growers are abandoning their grapes as well as the industry. Crisis talks are underway in South Australia where it’s feared it may soon be too arid in some pockets to grow regional heroes like Shiraz and Riesling. Tasmania see this as their moment, pouncing on the opportunity to expand their portfolio of emerging varietals. They have big hopes for Cabernet, Shiraz and Tempranillo, which until now have been unsuitable for a cooler climate. They will no doubt have their skeptics but the proof will be in the bottle.

As consumers we’ve come to expect extraordinary bargains from the discounting war between Australia’s supermarket duopoly. But this has ultimately come at the expense of producers, as retailers devalue brand after brand in their relentless efforts to undercut one another. As lower yields begin to reel in the oversupply, some producers will kick the bucket, while the heat mops up the rest. As I leave South America for Vegas, vintage is about to begin for many around the country. Let’s hope their gamble is a safer bet than mine!

Next week…
After some R&R in Vegas, I’ll be making my way to the Napa in search of Cabernet.

I know it’s a wine blog, but this week I’m bending the rules…

I’m in Peru, and whilst they make some decent wine here, I’m dedicating this post to their national drink; the Pisco Sour. The essence of this fiery cocktail is Pisco, which is basically a distilled wine made from fermented local grapes. It’s whizzed together with a concoction of other things and served ice-cold (see recipe below).

Sweet & Sour - The Pisco Sour

There are many different grapes that are used to make Pisco, but most are made from Quebranta, Torontel, or from one of the Muscat family. When the grapes are brought in from the vineyard, they’re crushed and then fermented without their skins to make a wine. This “must” or fermented grape juice is then distilled in copper or stainless steel vats to reach the desired alcoholic strength, (which is usually around 40-45% ABV). And boy do you feel it.

The Pisco is aged for a minimum of three months in vessels which do not alter not alter the physical properties before bottling. This is strong stuff, and even just a couple will have you half way there. This Saturday is “Pisco Sour Day” in Peru, (the 1^st Saturday of every February), so why not track some down and get busy blending!

Make it…

Throw a handful of ice, ½ a cup of Pisco, 2 tablespoons of sugar, the juice of a lemon or lime, and an egg white into a blender. Whirl together for 20 seconds or until the ice has dissolved. Pour into your favourite cocktail glass and add a dash of bitters on top. Serves 2, if you can share it.

Find it…

Sydney
Pisco Peru, 3 Holford Crescent, Gordon, 2072
0412 131 347

Melbourne
Paramount Liquor, 7 Grace Court, Sunshine West, 3020
(03) 9311 6655

Next week…
I’m heading down to Bolivia, then into Brazil for Carnival.

Patagonian Pinot, San Juan Shiraz, Mendoza Malbec…

Is it me or is there an alphabetical conspiracy dictating the wines coming out of Argentina?! Having just spent a week in beautiful Mendoza, I can tell you there’s a lot more to it than that.

Snow-melt water from the nearby Andes Mountains

Mendoza is surrounded to the west by the intimidating Andes Mountains, and to the north, east and south by a sweltering desert. Hail can decimate a vintage in minutes and rain is scarce, so drip irrigation is widely practiced from the abundance of snow-melt water from the mountains. The soils are poor, and the difference in the day/night temperature is big. It’s high up too, with vines planted between 1,000 – 1,700 metres above sea level. But it’s the combination of this climate that makes Mendoza unique, and which forces the vines to work even harder to produce those small, concentrated Malbec grapes that every winemaker dreams of getting their hands on.

Mendoza is serious red wine country, and although some white wine is made, it’s also not uncommon to come across bodegas (wineries) that just make a handful of single-vineyard Malbecs. This delicious red made its name in Bordeaux, France, where it was predominantly used as a blending grape to provide colour and softness to the tannic and powerful Cabernet dominant wines. These days Argentina boasts the largest plantings of Malbec vines in the world. And regardless of what you can afford, you’ll find amazing value for the price you’ve paid.

More Malbec

Young Malbec in your glass beams a vibrant, inky purple colour, and has an attractive flavour profile of blackberry, cherry, plum and chocolate. These wines are soft and inviting, and go hand in hand with a succulent Argentine steak. The best use new French oak barrels and come from expertly sought out sites. In Australia, Bleasdale from Langhorne Creek make some fine examples if you can’t seek one out from abroad.

Here’s my pick from Luján de Cuyo; one of the best sub-regions in Mendoza.

Bodega Achaval-Ferrer
This was a real find. It’s a 10 year-old venture between a doctor, a lawyer, an accountant, an air force pilot and yes, a winemaker! We’re treated to a tour of the winery and a tasting of their flagship single-vineyard Malbecs. Production is tiny, with each bottle receiving its capsule and label by hand. A smattering of great press from leading publications like Wine Spectator and Decanter has meant that most of it is now sold on allocation each year to cult followers in the U.S. Our host Patricia tells me Australia gets just 10 dozen. And even though hail wiped out the entire vintage in 2005 & 2006, they still won’t use nets on the vines as they say this compromises the ripening of the grapes. A Virgin Mary shrine next to the letter box is their only insurance. That’s trust.

The backyard at Achaval-Ferrer, looking onto the Andes Mountains.

Next week…
I’ll wrap up Mendoza, and head to Peru for some Pisco Sours.

Most of Uruguay’s vineyards are located on the rolling hills that surround its coastal capital, Montevideo. Staples like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet and Merlot thrive in the ample sunshine; but it’s a dry and tannic red wine made from the Tannat grape that presents the country’s biggest viticultural opportunity.

The Big Tannat!

The best I tasted had varietal red berry and earthy flavours, an understated use of oak and an elegant but firm structure. Winemakers have tried to make these wines more accessible in their youth by blending Tannat’s power and tannin with the softness of Merlot and other Bordeaux-style varieties. They’ve succeeded.

Most of it goes to Brazil so if you can’t track one down, try and seek out a local one. Massena (Barossa Valley), Pepper Tree (Hunter Valley), and Symphonia (King Valley), all produce good ones.

I’m staying on the coast in a town called La Barra, about 20km north of Punta del Este. We’re quickly (and thankfully) introduced to a local drink called Clerico. It’s a cheap white wine based blend of Chardonnay, Semillon and Chenin Blanc, stirred in a cold jug with a decent splash of Vodka, a few handfuls of fruit salad, ice and a generous scoop of sugar. This is tasty stuff, but for about $10 can also make it your worst enemy in the morning. Try it as a party starter – but you’ve been warned!

Clerico at sunset

But our best memory of Uruguay might just be the lunch we shared at Isla de Flores; a quaint seaside restaurant in Jose Ignacio. The menu is simple yet clever, and the wines are an extension of the flavours so expertly presented by head chefs Gastón and Francisco. Pav on the dessert menu prompts the easiest choice of the afternoon and gives us a delicious reminder of home. Yum. This little gem really is proof that great food and wine really can make you happy.

Here are my notes:

Pizzorno Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Uruguay
Wow. Lean and focused, with citrus and mineral flavours. Excellent acidity, finesse and length. A beautiful wine. Paired well with the salad of grapefruit, fennel and blood orange.

Marichal Chardonnay 2008, Uruguay
Right in the slot of a modern, new-world Chardonnay. White peach, citrus and hazelnut. Even better with the goats cheese salad.

Santa Rita Carménère 2008, Chile
Ripe with bright cherry flavours. Soft and inviting, with a subtle vanilla note on the finish.

Pizzorno Tannat 2008, Uruguay
Big and bold, with a meaty, dark cherry, earthy core. Perhaps a little young but better with the rare rack of lamb.

Next week…
I’m taking a look at the local wine retail scene in Buenos Aires; then heading to Mendoza.

The reds

Marichal Chardonnay 2008

 

 

 

 

Head Chef Baston and I

I love Buenos Aires for its bustling traffic, phenomenal steaks and ridiculously good wines…

With the abundance of Argentinean sunshine over here, it’s no surprise that Malbec and Torrontes have been adopted as local heroes. You’ll also find them commanding the lion’s share of most wine lists. These are fruit-driven yet balanced wines, with an attractive softness that has you frequently topping up your glass. A handful of Bordeaux varietals as well as Pinot Noir and regional specialties like Bonarda deliver some impressive wines worth trying too. But whatever bottle of Argentinean wine you pull the cork on; chances are it’s a bargain. And even parting with just 40 pesos (about 10 bucks) for a bottle of the local stuff will have you beaming.

Awesome steaks at Rodi

The other night we ate around the corner at Rodi; a local hang that’s about as traditional as they come. This place pumps out the juiciest steaks I’ve ever eaten, and you’ll find a great glass of red to match from the small but well chosen list of local wines. They go out late here. When we ordered the homemade Tiramisu at 11pm, our friendly waiter was still feverishly handing out menus to a packed house of hungry locals. Not bad for a Monday night.

One local Bodega (winery) that has really impressed me this past week is Crios. Apart from a ripe, voluptuous Malbec and a racy, fruit-driven Torrontes, what really distinguishes these wines from the rest is their winemaker, Susana Balbo. I’m told Susana has been crafting some of Argentina’s most expressive wines for nearly 30 years – pretty good for a local industry that’s dominated by male winemakers. Crios means “offspring”, a great take on these wines best enjoyed in their youth.

Crios Torrontes 2008

Here are my notes; hunt them down if you can.

Crios Malbec 2007, Mendoza
(AUD $15-$20)
Masses of brambly black fruits, well-balanced oak, dark chocolate and soft tannins. Loved it with my steak.

Crios Torrontes 2008, Mendoza
(AUD $15-$20)
Persistent flavours of green grapes, musk and ripe apricots. The sweetness is well balanced by lively acidity. Try it with spicy Asian cuisine.

Next Week…
I’m heading to Uruguay to discover what they’re drinking.